From taxi sketch to global icon
In 1976, graphic designer Milton Glaser sketched the now-famous 'I ❤️ NY' logo in the back of a yellow taxi. Commissioned by New York state and advertising agency Wells, Rich, Greene, the design was part of a campaign to boost tourism amid economic struggles and rising crime. Inspired by Robert Indiana's Love pop art, the logo quickly became synonymous with the city, though its trademark has been widely replicated worldwide, from London to Magaluf.
The T-shirt's journey from a $20 Canal Street souvenir to a high-fashion staple reflects its cultural staying power. Despite the state's efforts, knockoffs have made the design ubiquitous, turning it into one of the most recognizable pieces of city merchandise.
Jose Filipe Torres, global director for nation and city branding at Bloom Consulting, notes that such merchandise signals a city's aspirational appeal. "Fashion is effectively a third party narrating that city to a global audience in a context that shapes whether people want to visit, invest or live there," he says.
Match context
The T-shirt's resurgence aligns with political and cultural shifts. After the September 11 attacks, actor Jenna Elfman wore a distressed version by Rebecca Minkoff on The Jay Leno Show, symbolizing resilience. Today, the election of Zohran Mamdani as mayor has reignited pride in New York, with the shirt evolving into a statement of opposition to the Trump administration. It has, in effect, become an anti-MAGA symbol, embraced by those celebrating the city's diversity and progressive values.
Gen Z's love for kitsch and meme culture has further propelled its revival. Designers like Coach and Chanel have reimagined the classic tee, with Coach's beaded and scribbled version worn by Ella Emhoff during New York Fashion Week in September 2024. Chanel's sequined take, styled with tweed, debuted in a subway station show in December 2024. Celebrities such as Alex Consani, Teyana Taylor, and Amelia Dimoldenberg have also been spotted wearing variations of the shirt, cementing its place in pop culture.
The T-shirt's revival also affects the tourism and fashion industries. Souvenir shops see renewed interest, while high-fashion brands capitalize on the trend. For New Yorkers and visitors alike, wearing the shirt has become a way to express civic pride or political stance, influencing how the city is perceived globally.
Road ahead
Brand consultant Miranda Shanahan attributes the revival to Laver's law, which suggests trends follow a 20-year emotional cycle. "What feels hideous after 10 years becomes ridiculous after 20, then gradually ironic and desirable," she explains. The T-shirt's simplicity and adaptability—easily remixed for any city or subculture—make it ripe for meme-like reinvention.
British singer-songwriter Rose Gray has incorporated the tourist tee into her stage wardrobe, often matching it to the city she's performing in. "It's such a simple way for me to show my love to a city and my fans," she says. Her first 'I ❤️ NY' shirt, passed down by her mother, carries a nostalgic yet ironic charm. This blend of low and high culture, tacky and trendy, ensures the T-shirt's continued virality, much like the city it represents.
Via The Guardian.
